Rainier Muir Route/Disappointment Cleaver Route Conditions-05-08-2012
After several days of high snow, winds, and dismal summit conditions, things opened up on May 27th. A team of several guides opened up the DC Route, uncovering the fixed lines onto the Cleaver and essentially re-gaining the route that had been in prior to the big snows. Keep in mind that when you utilize any fixed lines, you should ask "Fixed by whom? And when? And what has happened since then?"). Above the Cleaver the route switchbacks up until about 13,300' then jogs right to circumvent a big crevasse, then jogs left back above Gibraltar again. There is one crevasse worth watching at about 13,800'.
For more pictures of the climbing route, please see the pictures posted on the Adventure Spirit Rock + Ice + Alpine Facebook site. And if you'd like a GPS file of the current route, email me via the email address listed on the Adventure Spirit webpage (you will need Mapsource software to use this).
Mountain conditions are subject to quick changes--so use the info above as only one piece in your overall climbing decision-making processes. It is up to you to make what you feel are the best decisions for you and your climbing party. Some other helpful links to aid you in making the best decision for you and your party can be found at:
- Rainier Mountaineering Incorporated's route updates -- http://www.rmiguides.com/rainier/route_info.php
- Rainier Specific Weather Forecast-- http://www.atmos.washington.edu/data/rainier_report.html
- Rainier Weather History (Telemetry) -- http://www.nwac.us/weatherdata/campmuir/now/
- Avalanche Safety-- http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/7/
- NPS Ranger Rainier Blog-- http://mountrainierclimbing.blogspot.com/