Adventure Spirit Blog

Trying Out the Mammut Trion Guide in the Central Alaskan Range

From the Moose's Tooth on the Ruth Glacier to The Throne in “Little Switzerland,” the Central Alaskan Range is peppered with prime alpine objectives, making it an excellent location for Rainier Mountaineering's first-ever Alaskan Alpine Seminar, and the perfect place to put Mammut's 45+ liter Trion Guide pack through the paces.

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Gear Reviews

Rediscovering My Mountain Roots--Exploring Ski Mountaineering in the French&Swiss Alps

Years later, I'm back to the boards. I've been living in Vermont now for a decade, focused mainly on rock, ice, and alpine, but the siren song of snow began calling again this year as the shriveled autumn leaves rustled in the wind. I ordered up a new set of boots, skis, and skins in November and waited for the flakes to fly. And waited. The kindest thing I can say about the early-season skiing in the Northeast this year is that it made me happy to be an ice climber. Not to be deterred by the anemic start, I made plans for an April ski trip in the Alps and hoped that I'd have the time and conditions to train.

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Ski Mountaineering, International

Mammut Blog Post--Prepping for Denali

Got out my Heron Pro and put together my pack for Denali today: 3 ropes, 2 full racks, 8 liters of water, and ankle weights. Sound to you like a savvy packing list for heading out onto the Kahiltna Glacier for a month?

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Mammut Athlete Team Blog, Alaska, Alpine Climbing

Mammut Athlete/Guide Ambassador

Stoked to report that Kel is now a Mammut Athlete/Guide Ambassador!

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Mammut Athlete Team Blog, Alpine Climbing, Backcountry Skiing, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, Ski Mountaineering

Give 'Em Wings and Watch Them Fly

So I know I've posted enough times this season about Martin & Brett's journey into lead climbing that you might begin to feel like this is a reality TV show, but I can't help it--it's been very exciting to watch and to be a part of...

 

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New Hampshire, Ice Climbing

Rock, Ice, & Alpine Experiences All In Four Days

Adventure Spirit climbers Bobby & John got a little bit of all three of these things this past week (plus Bobby almost got an "almost-fall from a tree into a river experience"--but that's another story—ask him about it!).

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New Hampshire, Alpine Climbing, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing

Smugglers Notch Ice Climbing Conditions Report 03-11-13

Two guide groups from Adventure Spirit Rock+Ice+Alpine were up in the Notch today. With temps hardly freezing overnight, it made for some exciting shows to watch today.

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Vermont, Ice Climbing, Route Reports

Adirondacks Avalanche Lake Ice Climbing Conditions Report 03-09-13

With warm temps around the last little bit, headed up to Avalanche Lake today to see how things have fared higher up. Climbed Avalanche Gully and got eyes on Adirondike and Trap Dike. Avalanche Gully was in decent shape.

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Adirondacks, Route Reports, Ice Climbing

Vertical Self-Rescue Clinic

We're offering a vertical self-rescue skills clinic that is a must for any lead or multi-pitch rock climber.

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Vermont, Rock Climbing, Technical Skills, Training

Adirondacks Ice Climbing Conditions-Avalanche Lake, Cascade Pass, Trap Dike-03-05-13

Went to the Adirondacks today to climb Trap Dike and took some pictures along the way of the ice climbing in the Avalanche Lake area as well as Cascade Pass area. Trap Dike is in good shape, with a couple of ice dams in the lower section and thin ice or exposed rock on the upper slab section. All the other areas were looking good (though Lucky Seven looked quite narrow). See photos for details.

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Adirondacks, Ice Climbing, Route Reports

Useful Crevasse Rescue Pointers/Refreshers

Check out these photos and captions for some great pointers/refreshers on crevasse rescue.

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Ice Climbing, Technical Skills, Training

Whirlwind Winter Week

What an ice season it has shaped up to be and the Adventure Spirit guide team has been making the most of it with their climbers. Just in the past week we've been ice climbing with Champlain College at Bolton Quarry, moving into steeper ice on Lake Willoughby's 20 Below Zero Gully, training the UVM IceSMAC (Site Management and Anchor Construction) at Bristol Cliffs, and out for some scratchy fun on Smugglers Notch's Ragnarock.

 

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Vermont, Ice Climbing

Adirondacks Mountainfest 2013 Ice Climbing--Multiplication Gully

Met up with Rob on the blustery Sunday of the Adirondack Mountainfest's final day, our sights set on the classic ice climb, Multiplication Gully.

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Adirondacks, Ice Climbing

Smugglers Notch Ice Climbing Conditions Report 01-16&17-2013

Back enjoying the climbing at Smugglers Notch on 1/16 and 1/17. Approached from the south Stowe side on 1/16 and went to Driving Force climbing area. Left area offered the usual options. Right area offered one line on the left and it looked like another about in on the right. Visited Workout Wall on 1/17. See previous blog post on conditions and see new photos posted here for a look at Workout Wall ice climbing.

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Vermont, Ice Climbing, Route Reports

Smugglers Notch Ice Climbing Conditions Report 01-15-13

Returned to the Notch today, post Warm-apocalypse 2013. Overall, things seemed pretty good and building quickly. ENT went, though bring your full shell for the first part. Jefferson Slide had some dry and decent thickness climbing for P1. Would've been thin and extremely wet to get to the cave belay, so set up a screw anchor and then went for P2, which was bulbous and fragile but do-able on the right side. Grand Confusion was in great shape, with fun rock and ice stemming, up until the top out to the typical belay tree, where the last 20' or so would've been extremely wet. Mystery Wall had a segment good for climbing by the end of the day, the right side of Workout was building quickly, and the left seemed it might offer potential by tomorrow. We're back to winter!

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Vermont, Ice Climbing, Route Reports

Interview: Climbing as a Lens on Life

Recently, Ryan Shauers, who I climbed a fair bit with this past year (NH Ice, Torment-Forbidden Traverse, etc) invited me to do an interview for his blog "Desk to Dirtbag." The link is below if you'd like to check it out.

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Alpine Climbing, Ice Climbing, Rock Climbing, Ski Mountaineering, Backcountry Skiing

Smugglers Notch Ice Climbing Conditions 12-19-12

The big news is that you can now SKI up to your climbing! The Notch Road now has enough snow for skis--though you might not want to bring out your best just yet. I took the tools out for a ski this morning. Visibility was limited by all the wonderful snow coming down and blowing around, so I only saw and took pictures of a few roadside favorites. But, extrapolating from those, things seem pretty solid--and more solidity is on the way...

 

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Vermont, Ice Climbing, Route Reports

Alpine Training on Mt. Washington

Met up with a unique crew this past weekend for alpine training at Pinkham Notch.  Seems the Central Maine Medical Center has a pretty solid idea of what constitutes health, because on a fairly regular basis a group of doctors, residents, interns, and med students on rotation get together to enjoy the great outdoors.  This past weekend they took on the challenge of alpine training.

We met up at 8am on Saturday in the Pinkham Notch basement.  Many people have varying opinions of the AMC, but anyone who climbs on Washington will tell you that the basement prep area is an indispensable asset–thank…

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New Hampshire, Alpine Climbing

Presidential Traverse Preparation on Franconia Ridge

Lot’s of people do the Presidential Traverse as training for Denali, but I’ve always said that Denali might just be good training for the Presidential Traverse:  The Presidential Range can pack a whallop!  But if you can’t get to Denali to train for your Presidential Traverse a great alternative is the Franconia Ridge Traverse.

Last week, Peter & I kicked off the alpine season with a 2-day circuit on the Ridge.  We began at the Flume Trailhead, went along White House Trail, and connected with Liberty Springs Trail.  After 2000′ of climbing over 3 miles, we arrived at the Liberty Springs…

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New Hampshire, Alpine Climbing

AIARE Level 1 Avalanche Course--Feb 8-10, 2012

WHY IS THIS AVALANCHE RESCUER USING HIS BEACON LIKE A CELL PHONE?: You'll have to read the caption to find out, but the quick gist is that he is demonstrating one of the many useful new techniques that are a part of the AIARE Level 1 curriculum. During last year's 3-day AIARE Level 1 Course we met at Crawford Notch to learn the latest in avalanche rescue techniques--but more importantly, learning how to AVOID the need to be rescued! If you are a skier/boarder/ice climber/mountaineer/alpinist and haven't already taken a Level 1 course, you should definitely put it on your list of things to do…

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New Hampshire, Training, Technical Skills, Alpine Climbing, Backcountry Skiing, Ice Climbing, Ski Mountaineering